Five MORE Mistakes Beginning Copic Colorers Make (and how to fix them)

 

No one is a perfect colorer…

…especially not in the beginning stages

It can be pretty easy to assume that your Copic Marker idols popped out of the womb with a Copic in one hand and a certificate of genius in the other.

But the stinkin' truth is that everyone starts out rough.

Really rough.

There is a definite learning curve to coloring with markers. It takes time and practice to develop good marker skills.

5 More Mistakes Beginning Copic Colorers Make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com
 

I teach a lot of marker classes

And the one thing I notice is that everyone screws up.

Everyone.

The thing is, we all don't screw up in the same way. Every beginner has a different set of hurdles to overcome. Some people have hesitancy problems, others are over-eager.

Every student I’ve ever met has two or three technique flaws that lead to less than stellar projects.

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

What's interesting though, is that while student A has 3 problems and student B has 3 problems, once you see enough colorers, you realize that all students make similar mistakes, the only thing that changes is the combination they come in.

So to help you diagnose what goes wrong when you sit down to color, let's look at five MORE of the most common mistakes I see from beginners.

Correct these mistakes and you're not a beginner anymore!

MORE mistakes? Yep, today we're covering Mistakes #6 through #10.

Don't miss the first article 5 Mistakes which covers Mistakes #1 through #5, here.

In the last article, I used a puffy red heart to illustrate mistakes. This time we're doing blue-violet balloons.

Here’s a good-blending sample. I used BV04, BV02, and BV01.

This isn't going to win me any prizes at the County Fair, especially since this balloon measures only 1” tall in real life and has now a high resolution, blown up giant...  but it is a fairly good example of the kind of smooth blending to shoot for.

Each ink color blends into the next in a fairly smooth manner. The lights are light and the darks are dark with no jarring streaks or blobs to ugly-up the image.

So now that you know what pretty good coloring looks like, let’s take a look at some typical bad coloring and how to fix it.

 
 
 
Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring
 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #6:  Coloring in blocks

Smooth blending should be a gentle transition from one marker color to another. The transition zones are key.

Think of a transition zone as a series of overlapping halves. You use markers A and C. Where the two colors overlap creates color B.

Where markers C and E overlap, you create color D.

To be clear, colors B and D are not actual marker colors, they're colors that are created when you transition between two markers.

In my pretty sample above, I overlapped BV04 and BV02 allowing them to magically create a BV03 section. I did not use BV03, I created it.

Same thing with BV02 and BV01. Those inks mixed and mingled to form the equivalent of a BV01.5.

It's all about the mixing.

But mixing can not happen if you color in blocky sections, as shown here.

The Fix:

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Block colorers are not using flick strokes and that’s why they end up with stripes or blocks rather then transition zones. 

They're physically laying down the correct colors but without the overlap, the inks barely touch each other and never get a chance to blend.

This is a flick stroke, it's a controlled pattern. I've used flicks here to concentrate the heaviest coat of BV04 down where the balloon is the darkest. As I move upwards, the flicks taper off, like little fingers. There is less BV04 ink at the top edge of my coloring and more down at the bottom.

Essentially, smooth blending is all about easing into the transition zone. Easy transitions lead to smooth blending.

It's much easier to blend finger zones to finger zones because there's less BV04 in the upper region for the BV02 to fight with.

Using flicks rather than coloring in blocks will improve your ability to blend inks in the transition zone and to form beautiful middle tones.

A quick note about blocky coloring: You may be a block colorer and not know it! If you typically color quarter-fold card sized stamps with Copics, you are likely coloring in blocks. The teeny-tiny size hides a lot of technique flaws! It’s usually not until you try coloring a larger image that your blocky habit becomes apparent.

 
 

Mistake #7: Not enough juice

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Here’s a scenario for you: You want to make a batch of pancakes.

Just for kicks, let's say you add only half the liquids. So instead of adding 1 cup of milk you use 1/2 cup. Instead of four eggs, you use only two.

How will the pancakes turn out? Will they be light and fluffy?

Probably not.

You're going to have powdery mess on the griddle. Even the dog won’t eat these pancakes.

You need moisture to make the pancake magic happen.

The same is true for markers. You need wet ink on the paper to facilitate blending.

The Fix:

I usually see dry coloring from hesitant students.

They're afraid to lay down too much color for fear of doing it wrong.

But trying to blend with only a little bit of ink is a like trying to do the backstroke in 6 inches of water. Your heart may be in it, but there's not enough moisture to swim.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

In the bad balloon above, I used a really healthy amount of BV04 but then I let it cure for about 20 minutes before proceeding.

Then I laid down a very wimpy layer of BV02.

Because I was working a light layer over a dried heavy layer, I did not have enough moisture to rehydrate the darker ink.

And surprise, surprise! It didn’t blend.

Ink particles need moisture to move.

Blending is impossible in a desert.

The best blending happens when you work wet into wet. That means not waiting a long time in-between colors.

It also means being generous with the ink on every single coat.

It's not impossible to blend wet into dried ink but the process requires more ink than wet into wet. This is because ink #1 must be re-hydrated before the blending can begin. It's much easier to hit the ink while it's still fresh.

The other thing for beginners to note is that the magic doesn't always happen on the first pass.

Sometimes the two inks won't begin to blend until you hit it with a second coat.

Blending requires a sense of both timing AND quantities.

If the blend isn't what you wanted it to be after the first application, it's okay to go back and wet it again!

 
 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #8: Too much light ink

Too little ink is a problem, but so is too much ink.

Remember when I said in the last fix that blending relies on a sense of timing AND quantities?

Well, here's why you can't go overboard.

This blend was going well until I got really happy with the lightest marker (BV01).

Basically, I went back with my lightest marker and coated the heck out of everything in the light and medium zones.

Single marker fixing is a problem because now my light area is almost as dark as the dark side.

And see the weird drying line running through the transition zone? That’s a bathtub ring!

And look in the upper left area, the paper is so saturated that we’re starting to get an oil slick up there.

The Fix:

Here's something you may never have considered.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

One coat of BV01 equals BV01. But what does three coats of BV01 equal?

You can easily get away with a second or third coat of most inks but when you start playing with multiple layers of the same color, all those lovely transparent layers start to add up to more than your original color.

BV01 + BV01 + BV01 + BV01 = BV02.5 or even BV03

By adding too much BV01, I've darkened the top of that balloon past the middle color. I've ruined my dark to light transition.

How do we avoid this?

Do not blend with just one marker.

Balance your applications of every color.

If you're not happy with the blend, don't grab just the lightest marker to make the fix. Instead, go back with your middle color THEN go back with the lighter.

We’re not only blending, we’re also balancing.

Reblending with multiple colors keeps your lights from accidentally layering up to be darker than your middles.

 
 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #9: shaggy coloring

When I introduce flicking, about half of the students do this.

It’s a tip flick which kinda wanders across the color zone. I call it “dinking around”. It’s like they’re saying “I’m an artist, so I make these sketchy artistic strokes.”

Dink. Dink. Dink.

Dinking is when you look like you’re busy but you’re not really getting anything done.

I think dinkers are so wrapped up in the fun of making pretty flick marks that they forget the ultimate goal of filling-in the shape with solid color.

Shaggy coloring is inefficient and a waste of time.

Shaggy strokes will never blend because you’re barely using enough ink to cover the white of the paper, much less make a blend.

Here’s the other bad thing I’ve noticed: even though a shaggy student might fix the problem, they still revert back to shaggy strokes when they get nervous or stop paying attention.

It’s a life-long tendency which you never really cure.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

The Fix:

Be mindful.

Pay attention to the look of what you’re doing and not just the feel.

Flicking only works when you're generous with both the number of flicks and the length of those flicks.

Your flicks need to overlap each other, they need to touch and get really snuggly in order to cover over the white space.

This isn't just a case of the BV04 flicks not touching each other either. We've got double trouble in this example. The BV02 flicks need to come down and lay on top of a good portion of the BV04 for the actual blending to begin.

It's not enough to have coverage, the coverage needs to be layered.

Play some Barry White and turn the lights down low. These colors need to get comfy, romantic, and downright dirty with each other. If your two inks never touch, if they sit in quarantine, like wall flowers at a sixth grade dance, then they're never going to merge and mingle and make beautiful music together.

 

Mistake #10: Overstroking

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

This is not usually a first-timer problem.

This bad technique develops after a few coloring sessions, once the student gets comfortable with flicking and coloring with using lots of moisture.

Actually, this is someone who is a little TOO comfortable.

Overstroking is dancing on the edge between a pretty darned good blend and perfection.

Dancing is only cool until you tumble headfirst into the piranha tank.

If you look really closely here, you'll see a mottled texture in the upper and middle thirds of the balloon.

That’s because I blended and blended and blended and blended and then blended some more with all three colors.

I'm right on the edge of oversaturating the paper and in the process, I've used too much of every color.

There’s so much ink here that the solvent in the lightest formula is starting to break down the darker inks.

Mottling happens when the paper is right at the saturation point. The ink particles are so free and floaty that they start to coagulate and clump together into islands of pigment surrounded by pale solvent.

This is basically too much of a good thing.

Mottling can also happen when the lightest marker in your blending combination is a smidge too light for the overall blend… but most mottling is when students get way too confident, pushing the wet into wet technique more towards sopping into dripping.

The Fix:

Know when to stop.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

There is a limit to how much wet ink a paper can hold.

Just because you can balance on the edge doesn’t mean you should.

More is not better.

In fact, with some Copic inks, more is worse.

If you load enough moisture into the paper, some inks will not just mottle, they’ll shatter.

Shattering is when an ink breaks down into its components. With a dark gray or black you'll see greens and purples start to ooze out.

Green inks can shatter with little yellow halos that often seep outside the boundaries of the image.

Purple and orange can leak reds or pinks.

Experience will teach you to quit while you're ahead.

Good colorers step back from the project to evaluate before they add more ink.

Are you trying to fix a truly bad blend or are you trying to fix a flaw so tiny that you're the only one who can see it?

In my experience, 60% of your mistakes are ones only you can notice. We're our own worst critics and nothing looks awesome from 3 inches away.

Step back and put the marker down! Learn to live with good instead of killing it in the quest for perfection.

 
 

So there you go-

5 more common mistakes and 5 solutions to prevent them from happening again.

  1. Blocky coloring

    Overlap those colors because inks that never touch can never blend.

  2. Dry coloring

    Don’t be afraid to use some ink. Blends can only happen when you use adequate moisture.

  3. Using too much light ink

    Smooth out your blends with more than one marker. Use both the medium and the light color, not just the lightest.

  4. Shaggy coloring

    Don’t dink around with sketchy strokes. Cover that paper in smooth and generous flicks!

  5. Overstroking

    I know it feels artistic and oh-so-professional to blend well but too much of a good thing leads to mottles and shattering.

Don't feel bad if you're guilty of more than one!

Heck, I've broken four or five of these rules on a single project. The key is to spot it happening and mentally slap yourself out of it before you take it too far!

Correcting mistakes and flaws in your technique is part of the learning process.

It's good for you!

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

5 Beginner Copic Marker Mistakes and How to Fix Them

5 Beginner Copic Marker Mistakes and How to Fix Them

You do not have to be a genius to make beautiful Copic Marker blends!

No Mensa membership required! Coloring with markers is a skill. That’s good news; because if it's a skill, that means that it’s completely learnable!

Everyone can learn to color well with Copic markers.

But there is a learning curve-- and how quickly you progress depends upon your ability to diagnose the flaws in your technique…

Black Erasers: Erase Mistakes Without Damaging your Paper

 
Black Erasers- Remove mistakes without damaging your paper | VanillaArts.com
 
 

“Which way you ought to go depends on where you want to get to...” 

There's a certain logic to what the cat said to Alice. You need to know where you're going before you decide how to get there.

When you make a mistake with colored pencils, there's not a one size fits all solution. Smart colorers evaluate the damage and decide upon the path that gets them around the mistake without creating a ton of damage in the process.

Erasers are not magical. They can't remove the whole mistake. They can only remove enough to get you back on the correct path.

An eraser is not a time machine, it won't take you back to the day before you made the mistake.

Huh. That's a rather important statement. So let me say that again, in bolder, bigger letters:

 

It’s an eraser, not a time machine

We're talking about colored pencil here. Just colored pencil. Because if you're here looking for a marker eraser, boy, are you fresh out of luck. You can minimize marker damage with a colorless blender but you're never going to do more than camouflage your marker mistakes.

But back to colored pencil- and for that, I'm sorry break this to you, but there's not going to be a perfect erasing solution here either.

You can minimize the damage but you're never going to take yourself back to fresh clean paper. Erasers are not the stuff of H.G. Wells.

I think part of the problem is because we call them colored pencils. When you hear pencils, you think graphite and for every graphite pencil, there's a pretty good eraser, right?

Now if we were more accurate and we started calling colored pencils what they really are... I'd suggest calling them  freekishly-stubborn-sticks-of-color-that-ain't-goin'-nowhere, but that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue... But if we really did call them FSSoCTAGN, then people would stop expecting to be able to remove every single colored pencil mistake they ever make.

A colored pencil eraser can't take you back to Eden, it can only make you feel a little less miserable about goofing up.

 
 

Let's review the most important rule of erasing mistakes:

First, do no harm.

Protect the paper tooth! | VanillaArts.com

Remember, paper has tooth and tooth is essential to good colored pencil coloring. Tooth is what grabs your colored pencil pigment and holds onto it. Colored pencil doesn't work well on glass, does it? It doesn't work well on glassy papers either. Tooth is vital to the coloring process.

ALL ERASERS DAMAGE TOOTH

There's no way to avoid it. Any rubbing, any friction, any eraser will flatten out the paper tooth and thus make it harder to color over the erasure zone.

So when you make a mistake, start with the lightest, most paper friendly eraser you can find. You don't have to pull out a hand grenade when a fluffy bunny will work.

Made a mistake? Start here:

  1. Sticky Tack Eraser- this is your fluffy bunny eraser. It lightly lifts color without damaging your paper. Read more about sticky tack and how to use it here.

  2. White Polymer Eraser- if the fluffy bunny doesn't work, try your new best friend. White erasers are non-abrasive and grit free. That means they rub without sanding away much of the paper surface. Most of your mistakes can be removed with a white eraser. Read about white erasers here and here.

But if the fluffy bunny can't handle the mistake and your new best friend doesn't make a dent in it, what should you do?

That's when you call in the big boy. BUT ONLY AFTER YOU'VE TRIED THE STICKY TACK AND THE WHITE ERASER!

Who is the big boy?

 
 
The big boy, the black polymer eraser | VanillaArts.com

Meet the Black Polymer Eraser

They're made by several companies, Factis is the kind that just happens to be at the cash register display of my favorite local art store.

The curse of the black pearl | VanillaArts.com

Pentel, Faber Castell, Staedtler, and Tombow also make good black erasers. The one you want to avoid is the Black Pearl variety.

Just remember the Johnny Depp movie, the Curse of the Black Pearl. That's easy to remember.

A black pearl won't ruin your life but it is way too abrasive for our needs. Save it for the class room.

By the way, that goes for white pearls and pink pearls too. They're all school erasers, not art erasers.

 

 
 

What's special about black erasers?

Well, he's a body builder compared to our other erasers.

We started with the weakest eraser on purpose, but sometimes you need more muscle.

In the eraser world, abrasive grit is muscle. Grit is what's ultimately going to remove the mistake.

But it's a trade-off- grit gets the job done but it'll also damage the tooth. So we want something muscular but with control.

We want a smooth operator; a big guy with some sensitivity. We want don't want the Terminator, we want the Kindergarten Cop. That's the black polymer eraser.

Choose the weakest eraser for your needs in order to save the paper | VanillaArts.com

Here's a sample of each eraser at work on a thick and heavy coat of Prismacolor Premier pencil.

Sticky tack lightens the area. It doesn't erase, it takes the sting off the mistake. Once you've lightened the mistake, you can layer on the correct color. Prismacolor is fairly opaque, this gentle re-coloring process is usually all the correction you need.

But if if isn't enough, try the white eraser. It's stronger than the fluffy bunny sticky tack but you're still preserving the tooth of the paper. Lift what you can and then recolor the zone.

The black eraser is your last resort. It removes most of the color, but it will never get it all. Remember, we are deliberately avoiding the hand grenade in order to keep as much tooth intact as possible.

 

The black eraser has a slight bit of grit so it can remove most of the color. It doesn't have enough grit to dig down into all the crevices.

Think of what's leftover after a black eraser as the Cheshire Cat's smile... the old pigment is still there but it's not enough to get in your way anymore.

Black polymer erasers remove just enough color to allow you a re-try. The downside is that if you over-rub the area with a black eraser, you will damage the paper. That's why it's the eraser of last resort. You never grab the black eraser first; use it only when the fluffy bunny and the best friend white eraser aren't lifting enough color to control the mistake.

And no, it won't leave a black smudge on your paper. I wouldn't do that to you! Good black erasers erase cleanly.

 
 

Here's the rundown on black polymer erasers:

Alternate Names-

Black PVC eraser, black polymer eraser, black poly eraser

Brands- 

Factis, Pentel, Faber Castell, Staedtler, and Tombow

Defining Features-

A rubbery eraser with a slight bit of grit, black in color but erases cleanly

Best used on-

Works great on graphite projects. Good on wax based colored pencil marks and other media that sit on top of the paper surface. Will not work on liquids like ink or paint that absorb into paper fibers.

Price Range-

Prices vary, usually under $4 per eraser. Sold in multi-packs

Available at-

Some art stores, some craft stores, most online art supply retailers

 

So to recap: No time machines, only fluffy bunnies, BFFs, and Cheshire cats... 

We're either talking in code or we're all mad here.

 

How Stamp Ink Changes Your Copic Coloring

 
What color of stamp ink do you use for Copic Marker projects? The color you choose can change the message you send! Learn how to match the ink to the mood. | VanillaArts.com | Colored Pencil, How To Color, Realistic Coloring
 
 

This is not a tutorial

What I really want to do today is to spark a conversation. A conversation that you're going to have with YOURSELF before you stamp out your next image for coloring.

Because if you're not asking yourself "what are my goals with this image?" then you're doing yourself a disservice.

 

What'dya mean "what are my goals"?  I'm making a card, that's my goal!

Yeah. I thought so.

Look, handmade cards are an investment. You spent:

  • maybe about $10 for the stamp or stamp set

  • at least $50 in Copic markers to color the stamp

  • $5 in decorative paper and cardstock

  • $6,742.29 on the various tools and templates you use to make cardmaking easier

Stop and look around your craft room. Start mentally calculating all the dollars you've spent to get yourself to this point of functionality. And think of the dollars you'd spend tonight if you hit the lottery.

Cardmaking, scrapbooking, and coloring in general is not a cheap hobby.

And that's just the monetary investment. Let's think about the time investment you've put into this craft.

Not just the time you spend on projects. Add to that the time you spend thinking about projets. Or going to shows. Or Make n' Takes. And lessons.

 

So hey, if you've got this much of your life invested in this hobby, why do you always grab the black stamp ink to start your images?

Got'cha there, didn't I.

I'll bet you put a lot of thought into colors before you started the project. You picked out the prettiest of patterned papers, you matched them to the perfect cardstock, and you thought a lot about marker or colored pencil colors.

And you spent zero time thinking about stamp ink.

Can we work on changing that?

 
 

Stamp ink makes a difference in your presentation

And good presentations require some planning.

You don't leave on vacation without knowing how you're getting to Hawaii, do you?

So that conversation I talked about? I want you to think about the message you're trying to send with your coloring.

Here's a Lawn Fawn fox from the Critters in the Forest set. I chose this company as an example for a very specific reason.

Black Line Stamping is bold but can be overwhelming. Read more at VanillaArts.com

Lawn Fawn makes bold and simple images. In my never-to-be-sat-upon opinion, I think Lawn Fawn and Copic markers are the perfect combination for creative colorers. Their clean and wide open images leave tons of space for really creative interpretations. 

But here's the downside: those big, bold lines get even bigger and bolder when you stamp a Lawn Fawn image in black.

If you're looking to set a mood with the card that is simple and spartan, or maybe you're doing a children's card, then by all means, go with black. Black makes an LF image look like it's straight out of a children's coloring book.

Black sets a primitive and youthful tone to images. Not just Lawn Fawn images but to ALL stamp images.

 

But what if that's not the theme of your card?

What if you're sending a get well message to a sophisticated 50 year old woman? 

Would you rip out a coloring book page, write "thinking of you in your time of difficulty" in the top corner and send that?

Because if you wouldn't, then you shouldn't be stamping the image in black.

 
 

Different ink colors send different messages

Your colored stamp image sends a message loud and clear BEFORE anyone ever reads the sentiment you stamped.

Think about the last card you received. Chances are you totally recall the picture on the front and you're a little soft when recalling the message inside.

Gray Line Stamping can help your coloring shine through. Read more at VanillaArts.com

See what I mean? Images send messages.

What does this one say?

Same exact image, same exact coloring process, but I used Memento's London Fog instead of Tuxedo black.

This one doesn't feel quite as pre-schooley, does it?

Now imagine that I had colored a far more complex stamp image, maybe an intricate floral bouquet stamp for use on a wedding card. Sophisticated gray ink completely tones down the kid factor and makes it more suitable for adult or serious purposes.

If the message I want to send is "Happy 45th wedding anniversary to a couple who has always served as a role model for my marriage..."  or  "Your son was an amazing person and I'm really sorry he had cancer and died in pain..." then gray is a much better tone to strike than the Romper Room look you get with Tuxedo Black.

It's subliminal but it's important to the final presentation.

You know what else this London Fog gray ink does?

It let's my coloring shine through. In the black sample, the fox screams "LAWN FAWN, BABY!!!!"

And yet in gray, you most likely looked a little harder at the coloring technique and the marker colors I used. If I'm spending more than 10 minutes coloring an image, I will always choose to highlight my technique. Because "LAWN FAWN, BABY!!!!" is really not a message I'm ever interested in broadcasting.

 
Black ink demands your attention. It's never subtle. | VanillaArts.com
Gray ink lets the personality of the colorer shine louder than the stamp brand. | VanillaArts.com
 
 
 

Now you may be tempted to think "hey, if a lighter line color is better than a darker line color, then maybe no-line is the absolute bestest..."

Well, calm down Trigger... Roy ain't saddled up just yet.

No-line or invisible-line coloring is a totally different beast.

No Line Stamping requires extra thought and care. Read more at VanillaArts.com

For the uninitiated, no-line coloring is where you stamp out the image in a really light color that you know will eventually disappear completely, like Memento's Desert Sand or Angel Pink.

And if you do it just right, no-line coloring makes it look like you drew the image yourself.

Which can be pretty darned impressive.

Or freaky as all get-out.

Because the lines disappear, your viewer's brain won't be receiving the normal coloring book line cues. As the colorer, you need to have some skill to fill in the gaps that a viewer needs in order to consider the image pleasing.

Which means you need to have a really good grasp of depth and layering.

And which lines need to be reintroduced back into the image.

And what to do about the eyeballs.

Especially the eyeball thing. Because it's really easy to turn a sweet, charming, and innocent La-La Land girl into a homicidal axe murderer when you screw up the eyes.

You know what I'm talking about, don't you? We've all seen pinned invisible stamp images that give us the heebie jeebies. It's the eyes. Mess the eyes up and suddenly even Holly freekin' Hobby looks like the love child of Bloody Mary and Ted Bundy.

And I'm pretty sure you weren't thinking to send the Lizzy Bordon subliminal message on that birthday card.

 

Anyway... the point is that I want you to stop and think next time, before you stamp your image in black.

Am I sending a juvenile, humorous, or casual message?

Or do I need something more sophisticated than Sesame Street?

Choose your stamp inks as carefully as you choose your marker colors. You'll be amazed at the depth and maturity the right stamp color can add to your next card.