I love soft colored pencils
I’m a big fan of soft & waxy pencils like Holbein Colored Pencils.
I like the way wax-based pencils feel gliding over the paper. They’re slick and buttery. I love how wax pencils look on paper. With the right touch, soft thick pencil pigments can mimic the classic feel of oil paintings.
But as much as I love Holbein pencils, they’re not the perfect pencil.
There is no perfect brand of colored pencils. Every brand has faults and foibles.
This is why colored pencil artists combine brands.
By pairing companion brands into super sets, we create a more versatile collection of pencils, better able to meet our needs.
Today, let’s look at how and when to form a super set, plus I’ll cover a great companion brand for Holbein Colored Pencils.
Colored pencil artists combine several brands of pencils to create personalized Super Sets based on their needs and style. Soft pencils cover large areas smoothly, hard pencils color details. Firm Caran d’Ache Pablo pencils make a quality companion set for soft pencils like Holbein or Prismacolor.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A SPONSORED POST. I PURCHASED BOTH HOLBEIN AND PABLO PENCILS WITH PERSONAL MONEY. THIS IS AN INDEPENDENT ARTICLE.
The problem with soft pencils
The average person thinks paper is a smooth surface for writing or drawing.
They’re wrong. Paper is actually very abrasive.
Paper feels smooth to your fingertips but if you look at the paper surface up close with a microscope, paper is covered with jagged mountains and craggy valleys.
We call these mountains and valleys tooth. The toothier the paper, the rougher the paper surface.
In colored pencil, we can’t use paper that’s too smooth.
Colored pencil doesn’t stick well to the polished papers we use for Copic Marker blending. Coloring on toothless paper is like coloring on glass, it just doesn’t work well.
Colored pencil artists need some tooth… but not too much tooth.
Remember, tooth is abrasive.
It wears away your pencils, forcing you to sharpen frequently. You can accidentally waste a lot of pencil pigment by coloring on high-tooth paper.
Colored pencil artists are always looking for Goldilocks paper— toothy enough to hold pigment but not so rough it wastes pencil.
Artists who use soft colored pencils have to be extra careful about tooth. Most pencil artists are picky but soft pencil artists are picky-picky-picky.
The softer the pencil, the easier it is for tooth to eat your pencils down to stubs.
And my beloved Holbein Colored Pencils?
Oh my gosh! I’ve never seen pencils disappear so fast!
Don’t get me wrong, Holbein pencils look great but jeepers! Get ready to blow through pencils faster than you ever expected.
My Tulip Wreath project shown here is 14 x 14 inches. I started the project with a brand new, never-been-used Rose Pink (OP429) Holbein pencil. My factory-fresh pencil measured 7 inches long.
I finished with a 3 inch stub.
Holbein pencils disappear fast. So when I hinted earlier that Holbein are not perfect? This is exactly what I’m talking about.
They’re gorgeous pencils but get ready to bookmark the open stock catalog. Halfway through the Tulip Wreath project, I stopped and ordered more green and pink pencils because I wasn’t sure I had enough to finish.
YIKES!
More Colored Pencil Tips:
Don’t miss my previous colored pencil articles
Sharpen your pencil for better coloring
The general rule in colored pencil is to keep a sharp point on your pencils.
A sharp pencil point can reach down into the valleys of the tooth. If your pencil is dull, the valleys stay white and your coloring will look grainy and pale.
This isn’t to say we don’t use dull pencils for specific techniques but most of the time, you’re better off using a sharp pencil than a dull one.
If anything, students don’t sharpen their pencils enough. Honestly, I’ve considered teaching pencil classes wearing a t-shirt that says:
Sharpen your damned pencil!
Dull pencils make you look stupid.
And I mean that in the nicest possible way.
It’s not just that dull pencils make for grainy looking colors— when you sharpen your pencil, you instantly look smarter.
Here’s what’s going on.
It’s hard to color accurately with a dull pencil.
Dull pencils are not evenly rounded at the point; they’re angled with odd corners and random edges.
So when you go to color up close to the edge of an area, you often misfire and color just outside the line. Or you misjudge the distance and color inside the line.
If try to fix it, now your fix won’t land where you wanted. Coloring with a dull pencil is a constant guessing game.
Dull points make sloppy coloring.
Dull pencils also make terrible lines.
Instead of neatly drawing a thin, fine whisker or a delicate leaf vein, you get something that’s fuzzy and irregularly thick and thin. So you go over the line several times trying to correct it. Now your thin fine line looks doubled and wonky.
Dull pencils make you look stupid, like you can’t control your pencil. Sharpen it and you instantly jump 10 IQ points.
And here’s the problem for those of us who love soft pencils:
Soft pencils can’t hold a point for more than a few strokes.
But nobody wants to stop and sharpen their pencil every 10 seconds, so we procrastinate and color with dull points longer than we should.
When you color with a soft pencil, like Holbein, Prismacolor Premier, or Luminance, your coloring will automatically look soft and squishy.
Soft pencils give you amazing color in fewer layers and they cover large areas with a beautiful smoothness but you quickly lose accuracy and crispness.
This is one reason why professional artists mix pencils.
Brand loyalty is a myth
Substitutions are a bigger myth
In my colored pencil classes, we use one brand of pencil for the entire project. Heck, I try to use the same brand for all my classes.
I do this for student convenience. Nobody wants to spend $300 on supplies for a class, then spend another $300 on materials for the next class.
But in an effort to save you money, classes and tutorials give you a false impression.
If I wasn’t an instructor, I’d go back to the artist’s way of using colored pencils— mixing brands.
I’d use soft pencils to build color quickly and because they look more radiant on paper.
I’d add a few hard pencils to make crisp edges and fine lines.
I’d start most projects with dark translucent pencils, then gradually use more light opaque pencils on the final details.
Or maybe I’d switch it up and start with opaques and glaze them with layers of translucents.
Smart artists combine several pencil brands into a personalized master set based upon their preferences and style.
My ideal Super Set is a little of this mixed with a few of that and I’d have a gigantic assortment of just-in-case pencils arranged in drawers chromatically instead of by brand.
Sometimes you need an opaque pink, sometimes you need a translucent pink. I hate digging through boxes of brands to see if X brand makes the kind of pink I want. I’d much rather open one pink drawer to see all my pink options.
Psssttt…This is also why I get a little frustrated when people ask if they can substitute one brand for another.
You think the only thing you need to worry about is matching the color…
Meanwhile I’m trying to understand why anyone would want to sub a hard translucent pencil for the soft opaque on your supply list.
Not all pink pencils work the same!
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When pencils are too soft to hold a point…
This is usually the trigger— the first time you can’t tighten up an edge or you realize that you’re making a mess, you’ll be tempted to find a totally different pencil.
That’s a good sign! You’re maturing as an artist.
Don’t fight the pencil to do something it doesn’t want to do. Instead, find a companion brand for your favorite pencils.
For years, my advanced students have heard hints about me mixing brands of pencils.
I try not to talk about it much because I don’t want anyone to feel obligated to rush out and spend another couple hundred dollars on a secondary set.
But if you’re serious about working with colored pencils and if you’ve used your primary brand of pencils long enough to notice that they don’t always do exactly what you want them to do…
Perhaps it’s time to expand your pencil collection.
For soft pencil users, your secondary set should be firm and crisp.
For firm pencil users, your complementary set should be soft and thick.
Find the yin to your yang.
Don’t buy more of the same thing and please don’t buy what’s trendy.
Companion pencils should excel at what your first set can not do.
Caran d’Ache Pablo Pencils are my favorite companion pencil
If you see me working with soft Holbein pencils, then I’ve usually got a few Pablo pencils laying on my desk, just in case.
Actually, I combine Pablo pencils with lots of other brands, not just Holbein.
Pablos are my go-to when I need a firm pencil to clean-up my edges, to make fine lines and veins, or when I’ve got a ton of pencil layers but still need to add texture.
Pablo pencils are an artist grade, oil based colored pencil made by Caran d’Ache. They’ve been around but you don’t hear people talk about them much. They’ve never been trendy with card makers or YouTubers.
I’m not usually a fan of hard colored pencils.
Even with artist grade pencils, firm colored pencils are usually less pigmented than the softer brands. Whenever I use a low pigment pencil, I find myself pressing harder to force more color into every stroke. Pressure is dangerous with hard pencis because you can damage the tooth and/or carve divots into the paper.
Pablo pencils have the highest pigment load of all the hard pencils I’ve tried.
They also lay down incredibly smoothly and have that slick feel which is normally only found in softer waxy pencils.
Pablos are the ideal hard pencil for soft pencil people.
You get the feel of a soft pencil with the control of a firm pencil.
Pablo pencils work well with Prismacolor Premier, Luminance, Mitsubishi, Holbein, and Derwent Lightfast pencils.
Why not use hard pencils all the time?
Well, there are tons of people who do.
But remember, I don’t think you should fight with your pencils to get the look you want.
Every task has an ideal tool. If you’re not using the right tool, you’re spending more time making accommodations than doing your best work.
Have you ever noticed that the people using hard colored pencils are the same ones scrubbing their projects with OMS and other solvents?
This is because hard colored pencils are the wrong tool to color large expanses with smooth color.
Have you ever noticed the people using solvents also mention in every tutorial “hey, you really need to apply 4-5 layers of pencil before you add solvent, so if you do this and it looks bad, it’s because you don’t have enough layers down first…”
Uhhh… yeah? Because hard pencils only lay down a little bit of color at a time. They’re not a generous tool.
Hard pencil users spend lots of time and money trying to make hard pencils look like soft pencils.
I don’t get it.
If you want thick, luxurious, radiant color, why not use a thick, luxurious, radiant pencil?
Seems like common sense to me.
The number one, most trendy, most recommended brand of colored pencils on the internet is a hard translucent pencil. That’s why everyone smushes it around with Gamsol or the tub of Vaseline from 1982 they found under grandma’s bathroom sink.
It’s the wrong tool for basic coloring, folks.
Important Tip: Wait before buying more colored pencils
It’s not good for beginners or intermediate students to bounce around between different brands of colored pencils.
Have you ever borrowed someone’s car and it starts to rain and you spend 5 minutes fumbling around for the windshield wiper button? This is what happens when you switch colored pencil brands.
Every set of pencils has a totally new dashboard.
They’re kinda the same… but not really… and then something weird happens and it doesn’t look the way you want it to… but you can’t figure out how to fix it because you really don’t know what all the pencils can do…
It’s better to learn one set at a time.
I recommend that you start with one brand of pencil and stick with that brand until you understand it intimately.
Know all the color names.
Know which colors feel abrasive.
Know which colors are opaque and which are translucent.
Know which colors change color over time.
Know which colors sit high on the paper and which sink.
Know which colors won’t adhere to other colors.
Before you introduce new pencils to your collection, you should color instinctually with your primary set, automatically reaching for the right pencil in every situation.
Prismacolor Premier is my primary set.
I’ve used them since 1985 so at this point, my brain is completely programmed to think in terms of Prismacolor. I drive a Crimson Lake car. Today I’m wearing a Cobalt Turquoise shirt. My front door has been painted Indanthrone Blue. Even when I’m using a different brand of pencil, I still mentally translate it back to Prismacolor. Oh, Denim is really just Indigo Blue…
Because I know my Prismacolors completely, I know all their problems and issues.
Every pencil added to your super set should fill a gap which your starter set can’t cover— a missing color, a lightfast option, a firmer pencil, a translucent alternative.
You won’t know what to add until you know what you need.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A SPONSORED POST. I PURCHASE ALL PENCILS WITH MY PERSONAL MONEY. THIS IS AN INDEPENDENT ARTICLE
How to build a Super Set of excellent colored pencils
As I said earlier, start with one set of pencils and get to know them really well.
Upgrade to the largest set of your starter brand. Make sure you have every color. You’d be amazed at some of the handy colors you’ll find in the expanded set. You won’t use every pencil every day but when you need a weird orange color, you’ll have it on hand.
Now zig instead of zagging. What’s the opposite of your set?
This is the first gap to fill.
If you’re currently working with soft pencils, find a set of harder detail pencils. If you’re working with hards, you’ll want a softer pencil for smooth fills.
If you don’t know which brand would make a good companion to your starter set, try doing a bit of research.
Soft brands tend to be wax based and firm pencils tend to be oil based. Google “artist grade oil based pencils” and write down the brands you see mentioned. Then do a search for each brand and read what educated people are saying.
Harry at the Art Gear Guide is an excellent resource; he’s tested all of the major brands at this point. I don’t always agree with him but he’s very thorough and has great observations. I also have a group at Facebook and you’re welcome to ask questions there.
And remember, if you’re a soft pencil fan, I highly recommend expanding with Pablo pencils. They’re a natural fit for you because they have that familiar glide.
If you’re unsure about your research, buy a small set of 12 pencils or a handful open stocks in similar colors to your favorite colors from your starter set. Play with them a bit before buying the bigger set.
Once you buy the large companion set, physically combine both sets. Group them chromatically in the same storage system.
Work with the two sets combined for a while.
Experiment when to use each type of pencil. Get a feel for how they work together.
As you work with the combined set, start to notice which colors you’re missing.
Do you have a problem coloring pink flowers? This isn’t surprising since many artist grade pencil sets skimp on the light to middle pinks.
Maybe you wish for more organic greens. I have this problem with Prismacolor, many of their greens look saccharine and artificial.
Perhaps you’re coloring portraits and always hunting for a specific skin tone.
Maybe you’re missing good gray pencils. I frequently look at some brands and wonder “Where are the French Grays? How can anyone survive without them?” Psssttt… if you’re not a Prismacolor person, add the PC French Grays to your Super Set!
Pay attention to the times when your hand hovers over the pencils, not finding the exact color you want. Pay attention to the times that you settle for a color, wishing there was something better.
There are color palette gaps in every line of pencils. This is your next target for expansion.
Slowly fill your color gaps with pencils from a third or fourth brand. Don’t just match the color, also match the firmness and opacity.
If you intend to sell original pencil paintings, you must think about lightfast ratings.
Mark any pencil which fails lightfast testing with a piece of tape and target that pencil for eventual substitution.
Remember, it takes time to find the right pencil to fill a gap. It may take years to find a lightfast substitution! Don’t just purge your set of all failing pencils at once— you won’t have many pinks, lavenders, or yellows to work with if you do.
Periodically winnow your set. If you haven’t touched a pencil in years, it belongs in your spare pencil drawer, not in your Super Set.
Tip: When I buy new pencils, I don’t sharpen the whole set at once. This way, I can say “hey, it’s been 2 years and this one still has the factory point on it!” Boop, move that color to the drawer for spares.
I also go through my spare pencil drawer periodically and pull out pencils which look useful. Your tastes and needs change over time. The color you forgot all about? It may be perfect for you now.
Things to remember:
Developing your ultimate custom super set takes YEARS. It slowly grows over time as you learn more about your likes, needs, and style. Slow evolutionary growth is essential. If you rush the process, you’re building on a whim rather than assembling the pencils you actually need.
Your set will change over time; this is also good. I have a core group of about 30 pencils that I use regularly. The rest of my Super Set is constantly in flux. For a while, I used Prismacolor Tuscan Red on everything but I haven’t touched that pencil in years. Move pencils in and out of your set as needed.
Yes, this is an expensive process. But remember, I cautioned you earlier that Super Sets are for advanced pencil students and professionals. Wait until this is your only hobby or even your profession before building a Super Set.
Brand doesn’t matter! Your super set may involve six different brands. There’s no trophy for the person using the fewest sets. The only thing that matters is that you have a purpose for everything in your Super Set. I have a combination of Prismacolor, Luminance, Lightfast, Holbein, Mitsubishi, and Pablo.
Build your own Super Set:
Here’s the info from above in a handy condensed list.
Start with a complete set of your starter pencil brand. Understand every color in this set.
Now purchase the opposite style of pencil. If you started with soft pencils, add a set of firm pencils or vice versa.
Combine both sets into a single storage unit and work with the combined set long enough to instinctually select colors.
Mark pencils with the worst lightfast rating and gradually replace these colors. Match more than just the color, also match firmness and opacity.
Start to watch for gaps in the color palette and colors you wish for. Slowly fill these gaps.
Winnow your set. Remove pencils you haven’t used in a while. Move these pencils to a standby storage unit.
Periodically go through your standby colors to see if there’s anything that looks useful. You can always move it back to storage if you don’t use it.
Use these steps to create your unique set of perfect pencils.
Where can you find Holbein Colored Pencils?
In the United States, there is currently only one AUTHORIZED retailer for Holbein Colored Pencils.
Dick Blick or Blick.com
Please exercise caution when buying from unathorized retailers or resellers. You may not be getting authentic merchandise, guaranteed quality, or pristine pencils in new condition.
We will update this area as more retailers are authorized.
Where can you find Pablo Colored Pencils?
Caran d’Ache products are easy to find in the United States, Canada, and Europe.
Caran d’Ache makes many different kinds of colored pencil including student grade pencils. Please make sure you’re purchasing Pablo pencils.
Tulips for Springtime
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Tulip Wreath
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Let your skill & creativity be the star of the image, not the stamp art. Ideal for large-scale projects in Copic Marker, colored pencil, or watercolor
Kit includes: digital stamp, suggested supply list, photo references, guide to shade and shadow & underpainting advice, color map & coloring process tips & photo collage
Select Products used in Tulip Wreath:
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